Note #8

Hey there,

Today feels like the first real day of fall for me, here in New York. On this stroll the skies were blue, and I was cozy in an oversized jacket and hoodie, everything felt clear. Heading back home to write this week’s note made me appreciate having the ability at this time to feel safe, and hopeful, and the freedom to create.

Continuing let’s continue the UK business breakdown for the 🇬🇧 Black History Month.

Ruka Hair

Ruka means to do hair like it's never been done before. That’s a line from their first-ever TV out-of-home campaign. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a TV advert from a company that creates hair products for Black women. which was also owned and founded by a Black woman. Lots of firsts. Let's go back to the beginning.

What

Founded in 2020, Ruka Hair makes hair extensions, products, and tools that cater to different types of curly and coily hair found on Black women. The UK-based beauty business was founded by Tendai Moyo and Ugorji Agbai. Ruka’s range started with ethically sourced human hair bundles, and has since expanded into ponytails, clip-ins, wigs, hair tools, and hair cosmetics for a wide range of textures historically looked over by legacy hair and beauty companies.

In 2023, CEO Tendai shared with Cosmetics Business, ”We launched to challenge an industry that has relegated this consumer group to a 'back-alley' consumer experience and low-quality products. We set out to reform the industry for people with afro and curly hair, by building a safe ecosystem of award-winning hair solutions”.

To build the company they’ve raised over $2.5m in funding including early-stage VC funding and crowd-funding. This has helped the company continue product development, strengthen its supply chain, maintain community fly-wheel, expand into Africa, and pop up in retail. In their last crowdfunding, Gen-Z and Millenials were the highest investors making up 58% of investors.

Why

From the beginning, Ruka has focused on building a community that embodies what it means to be a Black woman while offering quality products and experiences. Here are a few things that stand out to me about the company:

Listening to customers

From the start, Ruka has consistently engaged with various key stakeholders in the hair market. Including professional hair stylists, artists, and Black content creators who in turn can be ambassadors for the brand. Today on their website you can sign up to be a ‘Co-creator’ and get to test new products, give feedback, and get exclusive perks. Then there is the ‘Stylist Tribe’ for salon owners, hair educators, and session stylists, through which exclusive benefits can be unlocked. By bringing other people in the textured hair market on the journey, they are now engaged and contributing to helping Ruka build an ecosystem of hair and beauty solutions.

Proactively planning for the planet

The ethical side of hair extensions is regularly brought into question. Every few years a personality or celebrity will decide to explore where hair extensions come from. I think we are overdue for a new iteration. Anyway, Ruka states all its extensions are made from ethically sourced hair from Southeast Asia. Specifically from women who sell their hair as a source of income. They also committed to using responsible materials for 73% of design and sourcing. Front of house, Ruka committed to making all packaging 100% sustainable by the end of 2022.

They know to appeal to a younger audience they have to take sustainability seriously, and because it’s the right thing to do.

Telling a good story

• PR and Marketing: Ruka regularly is featured in lifestyle, beauty, and hair press for a new product release whether it’s a new line of extensions or a hair perfume. This extends to national television with Ruka spotlighted on ITV This Morning. The company has consistently been finding new ways and alternative routes to PR the company, its founders, and its products. The product is further promoted when seen in use by popular faces from Olympic Athlete Dina Asher-Smith to a range of lifestyle, hair, and beauty influencers, and investors themselves. Ahead of their most recent crowd-funding campaign Ruka released ‘Why I invested’. A series of talking head videos from investors sharing why they’re rooting for the brand.

• Founder story: The company understands that no matter what your audience, people buy into people. We’re all suckers for a good story and Ruka’s founders are telling their stories far and wide. The company has been described as wanting to become the “Apple of hair care”. You can read about Ruka’s origin story and ambitions for the future in Byrdie, Financial Times, Black Ballad, and Bustle.

Meeting customers where they are

Ruka Hair was founded during a global pandemic. That hasn’t stopped the team. Through pop-ups, Ruka has been meeting customers in real life to allow them to touch and feel the product that was previously only available online. Plus connect with the team and learn more about the brand. I remember visiting the Ruka pop-up at Westfield in Stratford, London. It felt special. Never had I ever seen a brand founded and run by Black women, making hair products for Black women, in a dedicated in-person retail space in the UK like this. The only way to describe it was it felt like a sign we were coming to a crossroads and things were looking brighter for Black consumers. Today, they can be found in the iconic legacy British Brand Selfridge's flagship store on Oxford Street providing hair services to complement the customers' retail experience.

These are just a few observations. I’ll have to do a separate breakdown that focuses on their international expansion. Ruka Hair is gaining ground and bringing customers, investors, and anyone else who wants to be a fan of them. Ruka is the real deal.

• Mother Jones: How the Surveillance of Black Hair Can Kill a Child’s Spirit 

• Variety: ‘Jaja’s African Hair Braiding’ Review: Broadway Production Celebrates a Sacred Space for Black Women

• The New York Times: Opinion | Meeting Charlotte Mensah Transformed My Natural Hair Journey

Ruka Hair Making History Fund

The Ruka Making History Fund in partnership with Henkel has launched. The fund will 3 black women or non-binary founders with a collective £10,000 grant where recipients will get £2,000, £3,000, and £5,000 respectively.

Applications are open. Learn more here.

Protect your mind.

Tyesha